INDIGO ....a Natural Dye.....El Salvador

                                                                        INDIGO ARTIST

     Indigo is an herb plant that grows wild in Central America.  It was a main export crop in El Salvador between the 16th-19th centuries  until Coffee took over in 1872.  In the Colonial period only nobles could wear indigo dyed clothes daily, and others only during Festivals.  Today everyone can wear "denim" blue jeans that have indigo dyed cotton yarn.  Indigo natural dye has regained popularity even though artificial chemical dyes are widely used.  Indigo is environmentally friendly.

The Blue House

     I visited an Indigo artisan that lives in a pretty "Blue" house in a small village, Santiago Nonualco.  She uses cotton fabric because it takes the natural dye best.  Every Indigo artist has unique designs, and no two designs are the same.

     They must first gather the Indigo leaves and a few branches which are then piled up, and they macerate the leaves and branches in water for 12-14 hours until the water turns a green-blue color.  The next step is to agitate the water until it foams white and then let it rest until the next day.  The indigo dye forms a sediment at the bottom of the water that is gathered using sponges.  At this stage its a semi-liquid, and it can be filtered through a cloth until a dark blue paste is formed.  Then it is dried out into a powder in order to store the dye for later use, or it can be added to very hot water for dying the cotton fabric.

The Clay Artisans of ILOBASCO

Erik's wife paints

Tiny miniature clay figures for the "Sorpresas (surprises

Talented Lucia paints miniatures

Lucia & friend paint beautiful miniature clay figures

Ilobasco vista

   Yesterday, I had a wonderful adventure by local bus to the town of Ilobasco which is famous for clay artisans who still make traditional pots and tiny clay miniatures called "sorpresas" (surprises).  Ilobasco is a mountain village where the Lenca Indigenous people lived until the Pipil tribes moved in at the end of the 15th c. , and absorbed their culture.  The Pipils called the town "Hilotaxca"(means place of elote(soft corn) tortillas.  Ilobasco remained mostly indigenous until well into the 18th c.
     Today, Ilobasco clay artisans have held on to their distinct Salvadoran style of beautiful colorful painted pots, vases, plates, and miniature surprises(for example, women selling flowers, or any scene of daily life here) inside a painted clay egg or tiny fruit.  I visited several artisan studios, and also a larger art cooperative called "Moje" which helps teens at risk especially those who have tried to stay out of gang activities.

                                                         Pedro making clay plates to paint

                              Erik

l would especially like to thank Erik and his family for inviting me into their casa (home) and clay studio.  He and his family work very hard each day, and still have time to share their time and hospitality with me.  Their life together is truly "art" and beauty combined.  I had fun with their son who is in the photo of the simple pottery kiln(oven) where they fire the clay pieces.  All their fine clay comes from the surrounding hills.  I saw so many beautiful people, and scenes to paint, and this is just the beginning of my journey.

Celebrations Salvadoran Style

    Saturday, I had the opportunity to share in the celebration with a small village who had fought 6 years for their rights to own and farm in a village(pueblo) not far away from the Capital of San Salvador.  They named their pueblo "Romero" in honor of Oscar Romero who worked for the rights of poor people in El Salvador.  They celebrated Mass, creative acting drama with humor and break dancing from their youth group, and food with Cis, our Language School.

                                                               

                                                             Break Dancers, Pueblo Romero

                                                               Music Concert Verde(green)UCA                                                    

A "Love" Wall, Santa Ana, El Salvador

      Today, I went with a friend from Language school to visit her Salvadoran friend's family in Santa Ana.  Santa Ana is about 2 hours from San Salvador by local bus.  I loved the charm and tranquil atmosphere.  There is a great restored Cathedral and Theater around the Plaza.  The Plaza is full of friendly families, and lots of little stalls to try fresh fruit juices and local treats.

Monsenor Romero Remembered March 24

     Oscar Arnulfo Romero is one of the great Heroes and Saints of our world along with Ghandi, Martin Luther King, J.F.Kennedy, and Nelson Mandela.  All of them worked for Human Rights and better conditions for the poor without promoting more violence.  He was appointed Archbishop of San Salvador in 1977, and then his friend Rutilio Grande was assassinated soon after for organizing the poor.  This tragic event led Monsenor Romero to speak out loud on the injustices, repression,and death squad murders against the poor by the ruling government.  On March 24, 1980 he was assassinated in the Chapel of the Divine Providence Hospital after a sermon calling on the government soldiers to stop killing innocent people.  Later during his funeral at the National Cathedral of San Salvador the government troops fired on and bombed mourners.

     I marched in solidarity last night with my friends, the brave Salvadoran People, and people around the world who want to remember Monsenor Romero and all that he said and also did for the poor and opressed.  We want to remember that today these acts of violence and social abuse continue in our world.  Last night there was a huge full moon that only comes once every 20 or 30 years, and it lit the path of our journey to the Cathedral together while we were singing and saying out loud that Romero Lives!  JUSTICE lives!!   Peace!
     *** If you are interested, there is an excellent book,"Oscar Romero- Memories in Mosaic" by Maria Lopez Vigil published by Epica.

LAS MUJERES (The Women)

     The International Womens' Day was March 8.  I marched with students and teachers from my Language School together with energetic Salvadorans who actively want better opportunities and social justice.  We marched for many blocks in the heat, and we ended at the large shady Park "Cutzatlan".  The Day was full of color, hope, beautiful art, music, poetry, drum beats, laughter, food, and Women who want changes around the world.  I liked the fact that babies, young girls, and women of all ages participated, and hoped for a better future free of domestic violence, abuse, and unfair economic situations.  My thanks to fellow student friends Ana and Kevin for use of their photos.

Volcano San Salvador

                                                             San Salvador and the volcano

                                                   

                                                     View from the top

                                                                  Volcano San Salvador 

                                                          View of Panchemalco

View of Lake Ilopango

Volcano San Salvador is the 5th highest volcano in El Salvador.  Don't worry!  It's dormant with a large 540m deep crater called El Boqueron ("Big Mouth"). I hiked up to the top with my Language class to a look-out with amazing views below of San Salvador and Pachemalco, the ocean, and Lake Ilopango.  There is a wonderful old Indian Legend in El Salvador about "Cipitin" who lives in a cave at the foot of a volcano called "Sihuatepeque", and he scatters volcanic ash like stardust.  He represents pure love to those young that can see him when they visit the volcano.

CONTRAST

      We have "Contrast" in art and music so I want to give a balanced picture of what "La Vida" (the Life) is for so many people here in El Salvador.  Daily life for the poor here in the Capital city, San Salvador means long hard physical labor in extreme heat and humidity.  The average city person who works and sells in the central market works from 3 or 4am. until 9 or 10pm. six or seven days per week.  They must get their fruits & vegetables, etc. to the market any way they can which includes carrying extreme weight on their heads or backs.  If they are lucky they have an old wheelbarrow or push cart.  Some carry huge baskets on buses for hours.

                                                                                Flower Lady

                                                                      Market Lady & I

                                                                 Beautiful Flower Lady

     I am amazed at their endurance and ability to survive hard times.  I want to contrast one picture of their hectic city life with the inherent Beauty and strength of the Salvadoran people.  For example, the elderly beautiful woman with a flower was carrying a huge load of flowers & plants on her head to sell at market.  It took my Spanish teacher, Lisandra & I to lift the load off her head so I could buy some flowers from her.